1. schimbat senzorul de pe diferential si vad ca nu mai face figuri kilometrajul si vitezometrul...10x haifisch
2. facut priza de aer pentru filtrul de aer K&N...simplu: gaura in capacul de la faruri si montat furtunul de la filtru...o sa mai fac o izolatie intre filtrul de aer si galeria de admisie, ca sa nu traga aer cald de la motor
3. chiar daca functioneaza kilometrajul, vitezometrul si turometrul vad ca nu imi merge consumul instant...mai e ceva de verificat?stiu ca daca ai turometru si vitezometru functional ar trebui sa mearga si consumul instant
4. nu imi merge lumina din torpedou...am becul legat la cele doua fire, arcul care vine in spatele becului, tamburusul de plastic care impinge cand inchid torpedoul...mai e vreo piesa?puteti sa faceti unul din voi o poza cu zona respectiva?
Full Version: un rechin la malul dunarii
eu nu prea am cum sa iti fac poza cu locul ala momentan 
zilele urmatoare
QUOTE (elvislorin @ Nov 25 2012, 06:06 PM) 
3. chiar daca functioneaza kilometrajul, vitezometrul si turometrul vad ca nu imi merge consumul instant...mai e ceva de verificat?stiu ca daca ai turometru si vitezometru functional ar trebui sa mearga si consumul instant
Si eu stiam acelasi lucru cand mi-am schimbat ceasul din bord si-am pus turometru cu economizor (eu chiar aveam ceas, adica pentru ora, mai lipsea cucu
) si m-am trezit ca nu merge economizorul. Si m-am tot uitat pe net, si-am descoperit ca nu merge pentru ca eu aveam carburatie (chiar daca aveam si eu un soi de ecu - de fapt niste senzori pe carburator). Acuma, m-am tot documentat, tot nu stiu clar cum functioneaza economizorul - desi era un topic aici pe forum, chiar pe sectiunea de E30 parca, unde se discuta si de o tensiune de referinta care se ia din acumulatorii din bord. Fara de care n-ai o citire corecta a economizorului dar - atentie! - si a turometrului. Deci treaba-i mai complicata, concluzia fiind ca nu tine doar de vitozemtru si turometru. Mai este un semnal care trebuie sa-l primesti acolo in bord
am gasit topicul cu e30 dar documentatia nu mai e disponibila...poate ma ajuta cineva totusi...316i?
o sa verific si acumulatorii din bord...avand in vedere ca masina a stat 2 ani nepornita si fara baterie mai mult ca sigur s-au descarcat
debitmetrul da coordonatele pt. consumul instant-probabil impreuna cu ecu.
la mine, cand am avut debitmetrul defect din cauza gpl-ului, nu mergea nici consumul insatnt.
ai schimbat motoru, debitmetrul e altfel, mufa e altfel...
la mine, cand am avut debitmetrul defect din cauza gpl-ului, nu mergea nici consumul insatnt.
ai schimbat motoru, debitmetrul e altfel, mufa e altfel...
nop maestre...nu are nici o treaba debitmetrul...acum am dat jos ceasurile si am gasit placa de baza cu depuneri si circuite intrerupte...o rezolv si apoi schimb si acumulatorii...era un topic pe forum in legatura cu acumulatorii dar nu il mai gasesc..help?
gasit asta
The Service Indicator (SI) board is a circuit board in the instrument
cluster. Its most obvious function is to monitor the engine usage in
order to count down the time until the next recommended oil change or
inspection, reporting using the bar graph on the cluster. A more subtle
function is to read the "code plug" at start up and use this information
to translate fuel injector and ignition pulses to drive the tachometer
and fuel economy meter.
The SI board batteries provide back-up power to retain the service
counter when the main battery is dead or missing. Much like a UPS for
a desktop computer, they are intended to prevent data loss during a
brief power outage rather than to be a long-term power source. Since SI
board batteries are a pain to replace, you should not remove the battery
for storage and avoid leaving the car sit with a dead battery.
There are two major variations of the Service Indicator (SI) board in
the instrument cluster, the original type with NiCad batteries and the
redesigned retrofit board with long-life Lithium batteries.
NiCad boards have two 1.2V 'AA' cells in series. Fresh batteries will
power the SI board for about a month if the main battery is
disconnected, and will slowly recharge when main battery voltage is
restored. The NiCads typically to last for 5 to 15 years.
Lithium boards have two 3V lithium cells in parallel, which will last for
well over a decade of stand-by use. They should power the SI board for
several months if you remove the main battery, but this will permanently
consume part of their life.
The problem with NiCad board, and the reason for the SI board redesign,
is that NiCad cells don't fail gracefully. If you discharge an old cell
to zero volts (really below 0.6V), metal whiskers start growing
internally. These will short out the cell, preventing it from
recharging at all. The original SI board had two design flaws based on
connecting the microprocessor directly to the batteries: it would
discharge the batteries completely trying to preserve the counter state,
and shorted batteries will prevent the microprocessor from working at
all when the power is restored. Even if you don't care about the oil
change suggestion, other functions that depends on the coding plug
(e.g. the tach) will not work.
The Lithium battery board fixed the design problem. It has two
non-rechargeable 3V lithium cells that are diode isolated from each other
and main battery power. Either cell can provide back-up power, with the
load normally shared to provide twice the life. Even if both cells
fail, the main battery can still power the circuitry.
So now that you know how the SI board batteries work and fail, how do we
fix the problem? I'll start with the NiCad board, since people with bad
lithium batteries might not even know that they have have dead batteries.
There are several web pages with excellent instructions and pictures on
removing the SI board. I won't repeat them here, instead only covering
the battery information that isn't obvious from physical disassembly.
The original NiCad batteries are standard size AA cells (Varta 500 RST)
with board-mount tabs welded on the ends. Your options are to buy
replacements with the same board-tab connections from a specialty
battery supplier (hobby shop or on-line), buy cells with solder tabs or
wires attached, or use wire a remote battery holder to the circuit
board.
Whatever mounting option you choose, use *only* standard capacity,
high-temp NiCad cells. "Better" battery chemistry types (NiM-H,
Lithium) or specialized cells (rapid charge, high capacity) cells are
not better for this application. Non-NiCad chemistries will have
different voltages, and high capacity or rapid recharge NiCad cells have
design compromises that reduce longevity. NiM-H batteries are reported to
work, but the continuous trickle charging will destroy them.
A good choice of battery is the Sanyo high-temp standard capacity cells.
If you can't find cells with solder tabs or want to remote-mount the
cells for easier replacement, put them in a holder. Radio Shack has a
nice dual AA cell battery holder, part #270-408. It's fully enclosed
with wire leads already attached, and typically stocked in-store for
about $1.49.
I don't recommend Radio Shack as a NiCad battery source. They will do
in a pinch, but the cells are overpriced and not the best type for this
application.
Now on to the lithium battery SI board. This is much more academic,
since these board generally don't have problems. However our cars are
getting old, so some of these boards may start needing battery
replacements at some point.
Lithium Battery info
The newer style SI board uses a MnhO2 Lithium battery by Sanyo (CR1425OSE).
The board on my 1987 325is is dated 13.94, and numbered 992 647 196.
It clearly is a replacement, likely installed after only seven years.
The batteries on my board are dated 93-08, and measure 3.17V in 2004.
Nominal end-of-life voltage is 2.0V, but at 2.5V little capacity remains.
The two 3V cells are connected in parallel but isolated by diodes.
Either cell can fail individually and the board will still work.
The cells have an extra isolation film under the conformal coating,
presumably to protect the board from overheating or leakage.
More details about the battery:
Sanyo CR14250SE 3V 850mAh 14.5x25mm (1/2 AA size) lithium cell.
The 14250 is a standard primary (non-rechargeable) Lithium type, available
from multiple sources.
sanyo.wslogic.com/pdf/pdfs/CR14250SE.pdf
The 'SE' variant was optimized for high capacity and long shelf life.
Other variants are optimized for high discharge rate or light weight.
The standard 'SE' discharge rate is 0.5 mA.
This is ten times less than the power needed to light a small LED.
At the standard rate the cells will discharge in 72 days.
At a 10uA rate the cells will last 10 years.
The temp range is -40C to +85C, rather than -20C+60C of other brands.
The cell may weigh up to 11g, rather than as little as 7g.
The Sanyo 'SET-FT' suffix indicates welded tabs for board mounting.
Modern cells are available in 950mAh versions, but long shelf life and
seal life are more important than capacity.
INLOCUITORUL PT VARTA 500 RST E 55110201059
The Service Indicator (SI) board is a circuit board in the instrument
cluster. Its most obvious function is to monitor the engine usage in
order to count down the time until the next recommended oil change or
inspection, reporting using the bar graph on the cluster. A more subtle
function is to read the "code plug" at start up and use this information
to translate fuel injector and ignition pulses to drive the tachometer
and fuel economy meter.
The SI board batteries provide back-up power to retain the service
counter when the main battery is dead or missing. Much like a UPS for
a desktop computer, they are intended to prevent data loss during a
brief power outage rather than to be a long-term power source. Since SI
board batteries are a pain to replace, you should not remove the battery
for storage and avoid leaving the car sit with a dead battery.
There are two major variations of the Service Indicator (SI) board in
the instrument cluster, the original type with NiCad batteries and the
redesigned retrofit board with long-life Lithium batteries.
NiCad boards have two 1.2V 'AA' cells in series. Fresh batteries will
power the SI board for about a month if the main battery is
disconnected, and will slowly recharge when main battery voltage is
restored. The NiCads typically to last for 5 to 15 years.
Lithium boards have two 3V lithium cells in parallel, which will last for
well over a decade of stand-by use. They should power the SI board for
several months if you remove the main battery, but this will permanently
consume part of their life.
The problem with NiCad board, and the reason for the SI board redesign,
is that NiCad cells don't fail gracefully. If you discharge an old cell
to zero volts (really below 0.6V), metal whiskers start growing
internally. These will short out the cell, preventing it from
recharging at all. The original SI board had two design flaws based on
connecting the microprocessor directly to the batteries: it would
discharge the batteries completely trying to preserve the counter state,
and shorted batteries will prevent the microprocessor from working at
all when the power is restored. Even if you don't care about the oil
change suggestion, other functions that depends on the coding plug
(e.g. the tach) will not work.
The Lithium battery board fixed the design problem. It has two
non-rechargeable 3V lithium cells that are diode isolated from each other
and main battery power. Either cell can provide back-up power, with the
load normally shared to provide twice the life. Even if both cells
fail, the main battery can still power the circuitry.
So now that you know how the SI board batteries work and fail, how do we
fix the problem? I'll start with the NiCad board, since people with bad
lithium batteries might not even know that they have have dead batteries.
There are several web pages with excellent instructions and pictures on
removing the SI board. I won't repeat them here, instead only covering
the battery information that isn't obvious from physical disassembly.
The original NiCad batteries are standard size AA cells (Varta 500 RST)
with board-mount tabs welded on the ends. Your options are to buy
replacements with the same board-tab connections from a specialty
battery supplier (hobby shop or on-line), buy cells with solder tabs or
wires attached, or use wire a remote battery holder to the circuit
board.
Whatever mounting option you choose, use *only* standard capacity,
high-temp NiCad cells. "Better" battery chemistry types (NiM-H,
Lithium) or specialized cells (rapid charge, high capacity) cells are
not better for this application. Non-NiCad chemistries will have
different voltages, and high capacity or rapid recharge NiCad cells have
design compromises that reduce longevity. NiM-H batteries are reported to
work, but the continuous trickle charging will destroy them.
A good choice of battery is the Sanyo high-temp standard capacity cells.
If you can't find cells with solder tabs or want to remote-mount the
cells for easier replacement, put them in a holder. Radio Shack has a
nice dual AA cell battery holder, part #270-408. It's fully enclosed
with wire leads already attached, and typically stocked in-store for
about $1.49.
I don't recommend Radio Shack as a NiCad battery source. They will do
in a pinch, but the cells are overpriced and not the best type for this
application.
Now on to the lithium battery SI board. This is much more academic,
since these board generally don't have problems. However our cars are
getting old, so some of these boards may start needing battery
replacements at some point.
Lithium Battery info
The newer style SI board uses a MnhO2 Lithium battery by Sanyo (CR1425OSE).
The board on my 1987 325is is dated 13.94, and numbered 992 647 196.
It clearly is a replacement, likely installed after only seven years.
The batteries on my board are dated 93-08, and measure 3.17V in 2004.
Nominal end-of-life voltage is 2.0V, but at 2.5V little capacity remains.
The two 3V cells are connected in parallel but isolated by diodes.
Either cell can fail individually and the board will still work.
The cells have an extra isolation film under the conformal coating,
presumably to protect the board from overheating or leakage.
More details about the battery:
Sanyo CR14250SE 3V 850mAh 14.5x25mm (1/2 AA size) lithium cell.
The 14250 is a standard primary (non-rechargeable) Lithium type, available
from multiple sources.
sanyo.wslogic.com/pdf/pdfs/CR14250SE.pdf
The 'SE' variant was optimized for high capacity and long shelf life.
Other variants are optimized for high discharge rate or light weight.
The standard 'SE' discharge rate is 0.5 mA.
This is ten times less than the power needed to light a small LED.
At the standard rate the cells will discharge in 72 days.
At a 10uA rate the cells will last 10 years.
The temp range is -40C to +85C, rather than -20C+60C of other brands.
The cell may weigh up to 11g, rather than as little as 7g.
The Sanyo 'SET-FT' suffix indicates welded tabs for board mounting.
Modern cells are available in 950mAh versions, but long shelf life and
seal life are more important than capacity.
INLOCUITORUL PT VARTA 500 RST E 55110201059
Depinde, unele nu-s AA, tre' sa vezi ce baterii ai pe SI board. Eu la bord mai vechi aveam modelul mai lung, pe ala mai nou, model scurt, cr14250 parca. Ma uit la mine pe topic si-ti spun exact.
Am varta 500 rst
am gasit si am comandat niste acumulator ni-cd de 1.2v 940 mA la cca 25 lei bucata. vin din polonia ori saptamana viitoare ori dupa anul nou. caut in continuare un electronist sa verifice placa de baza si sa repare un circuit care a fost reparat de mantuiala iar intre timp am pus niste ceasuri de diesel. also, am schimbat partea electronica de la contact si am fixat-o cum trebuie de butuc pt ca aveam ceva probleme inainte de asta. cam atat pe ziua de azi.
zilele astea m-am ocupat de ceasurile de bord. dupa ce am schimbat senzorul de pe grup imi mergeau kilometrajul, vitezometrul si turometrul si cu ceasurile de diesel si cu cele de benzina. am demontat ceasurile de benzinar si am dus placa la electronist. a curatat-o si a refacut un circuit care era mancat de ce s-a scurs de pe acumulatori. a dat acumulatorii jos si mi-a lipit doua fire de placa. de la placa pana la un suport de baterii/acumulatori aa. am anulat comanda de acumulator ni-cd din polonia pt ca se gasesc si la noi in tara pe stoc (adelaida.ro 16-25 lei). am desfacut si ceasurile de diesel si am vazut ca alea aveau acumulatori sanyo pe litiu care inca functionau (dar la diesel nu e consum instant). am pus acumulatori ni-mh de 1.2v pana iau pe ni-cd si am dat cu ceasurile de benzinar pe masina. surpriza: nu mai merge vitezometrul, turometrul si consumul instant. le-am pus si pe alea de diesel si la fel. am schimbat intre ele ceasurile de vitezometru (m-am gandit ca poate nu a reparat bine placa) de la diesel la benzina si invers si le-am pus pe masina. acelasi lucru. ma gandesc ca poate iar face figuri senzorul de pe grup. se poate verifica daca functioneaza corect senzorul asta?ce sa mai verific?vreo siguranta, vreun releu?
deja m-au disperat ceasurile si ma tot gandesc sa cumpar altele. la ce pret se vand?
Sa nu le cumperi caesurile aiurea, masoara rezistenta de pe senzor
Oricum, dupa toata povestea asta, eu m-as gandi ca i-ai busit ceva pe placa, cand le-ai schimbat. Ori daca nu pe placa, pe "langa".
Oricum, dupa toata povestea asta, eu m-as gandi ca i-ai busit ceva pe placa, cand le-ai schimbat. Ori daca nu pe placa, pe "langa".
xox: si ce valori ar trebui sa am la senzor?la placa a lucrat un electronist si am verificat apoi toate circuitele si erau ok. cred ca ceasurile isi arata varsta si pana la urma o sa fac un efort sa iau altele. la naiba!
haifisch: poza cu iluminarea din torpedou mai vine?
haifisch: poza cu iluminarea din torpedou mai vine?
QUOTE (elvislorin @ Nov 30 2012, 07:38 PM)
xox: si ce valori ar trebui sa am la senzor?la placa a lucrat un electronist si am verificat apoi toate circuitele si erau ok. cred ca ceasurile isi arata varsta si pana la urma o sa fac un efort sa iau altele. la naiba!
haifisch: poza cu iluminarea din torpedou mai vine?
haifisch: poza cu iluminarea din torpedou mai vine?
Are frate miu niste ceasuri si cred ca sunt de e 28.Unu dintre ele are 260 pe ceas, asta stiu sigur.Le fac poze si mi spui daca te ajuta.Le fac acum ca le am in subsol si cand ma intorc le postez.
cu 260 pe km am si eu pe e28.ar trebui sa ii fie bune
astept pozele
Sanyo cu litiu are acelasi voltaj cu acumulatorii vechi?
Acelasi format, R6 (AA)?
Acelasi format, R6 (AA)?
@lorin: nu stiu ce valoare trebuie sa ai, am un document salvat, promit ca ma uit sambata peste el. Banui ca-i acelasi ca la E30.
@TiL: sunt formate diferite, scurt si lung, la fel e si la mine la E30. Difera SI board, am si niste poze undeva pe aici pe forum.
@TiL: sunt formate diferite, scurt si lung, la fel e si la mine la E30. Difera SI board, am si niste poze undeva pe aici pe forum.
Imi pare rau ,nu am cu ce sa scot pozele .e frate miu plecat cu masina si cablul e in masina.Maine o sa fiu plecat dar ii las cardul sa le posteze el.Sorry !
sanyo are 1.5v iar varta 1.2v...sanyo s-a pus dupa 02/86
Aha, banuiam ca-i ceva diferit, tensiunea de referinta difera de la una la alta, nu scria nimic pe ele cand le-am scos, de asta am crezut ca-s la fel.
tin minte ca am avut doua cazuri la E28:
-bord vechi, cu doi acumulatori R6 de 1.2 v bucata
- bord nou (scria ceva an de fabricatie 87 - 89, nu mai retin) cu o baterie (nu acumulator) sanyo. Bateria asta avea tensiune diferita, dar nu mai retin cat. Posibil chiar 6V...
Cazul al doilea e la un bord de TD pe care l-am luat din dezmembrari http://bmwzone.ro/forums/index.php?showtopic=4688&hl=
A, uite ca am scris si anii de fabricatie acolo, am retinut bine
-bord vechi, cu doi acumulatori R6 de 1.2 v bucata
- bord nou (scria ceva an de fabricatie 87 - 89, nu mai retin) cu o baterie (nu acumulator) sanyo. Bateria asta avea tensiune diferita, dar nu mai retin cat. Posibil chiar 6V...
Cazul al doilea e la un bord de TD pe care l-am luat din dezmembrari http://bmwzone.ro/forums/index.php?showtopic=4688&hl=
A, uite ca am scris si anii de fabricatie acolo, am retinut bine
Am uitat mai sunt si alea de 6v care au forma la fel cu cele de 9v clasice, nu stiu formatul, si care sunt de fapt 2 de 3v lipite intr-un plastic sau ceva de genul asta, ori 4 din alea mici, nu mai stiu. Am desfacut la un moment dat una si erau mai multe inseriate.
Oricum ar fi cea mai buna varianta e cablul scos din bord, tras in torpedou, si eu am gasit pe un site link-ul dar n-am reusit sa-mi aranjez firele, a iesit o mare zapaceala in bord, cred ca am ars un pic de pe placa
Oricum ar fi cea mai buna varianta e cablul scos din bord, tras in torpedou, si eu am gasit pe un site link-ul dar n-am reusit sa-mi aranjez firele, a iesit o mare zapaceala in bord, cred ca am ars un pic de pe placa
nu le trag in torpedou..le pun pe panoul de sub ceasuri, cel din dreapta coloanei de directie...prea multe fire merg in torpedou si daca e sa strice vreun acumulator n-as vrea sa se scurga ceva din ele pe fire sau pe calculatorul motorului sau al abs-ului
Mi-am adus aminte, nu cumva au si amperaj diferit?
Acum ma vazut ca unul e de automata.Si e cu 240.
cel din dreapta e ce caut...e functional 100 la suta? poti sa imi dai un cod de pe spatele lui?
QUOTE (elvislorin @ Dec 2 2012, 03:06 PM)
cel din dreapta e ce caut...e functional 100 la suta? poti sa imi dai un cod de pe spatele lui?
DA,maine pe la 13 00 ma uit si scriu codul!
batranul a primit o prelata si o pompa submersibila de benzina...prelata e pusa iar pompa o montez sambata
mai scriu si eu pe aici....am pornit batranul acum 2 zile si l-am cazat in hala (dupa 2 luni si jumatate)...in sfarsit sta la scuteala de intemperii...in rest, n-am facut absolut nimic la el din decembrie incoace
ai fost plecat?
doar cu capul....mi s-a luat de mesterit la masina iarna asta...dupa ce am incercat timp de o saptamana sa fac ceasurile de bord (in decembrie) sa mearga m-am saturat si l-am tras pe dreapta
QUOTE (elvislorin @ Feb 25 2013, 11:41 PM)
doar cu capul....mi s-a luat de mesterit la masina iarna asta...dupa ce am incercat timp de o saptamana sa fac ceasurile de bord (in decembrie) sa mearga m-am saturat si l-am tras pe dreapta
Il pun pe frate miu sa te sune azi sa ti trimita ceasurile alea pote iti rezolvi problema.Salut!
multam
@eugene12: roaga-l te rog pe fratele tau sa imi puna si mie ceasurile saptamana viitoare
in alta ordine de idei cred ca azi o sa bibilesc ceva pe la masina
in alta ordine de idei cred ca azi o sa bibilesc ceva pe la masina
QUOTE (elvislorin @ Mar 9 2013, 11:12 AM)
@eugene12: roaga-l te rog pe fratele tau sa imi puna si mie ceasurile saptamana viitoare
in alta ordine de idei cred ca azi o sa bibilesc ceva pe la masina
in alta ordine de idei cred ca azi o sa bibilesc ceva pe la masina
Le am impachetat de cateva zile dar n am ajuns sa le trimit.Promit ca luni le pun la posta .
cum vine vremea buna cum vine si cheful de munca. azi am pus pompa de combustibil din rezervor si sonda. in sfarsit imi arata si mie cata benzina am in rezervor ))...m-am saturat sa tot raman in pana prostului. de maine incolo ma apuc si de ceasuri
))...m-am saturat sa tot raman in pana prostului. de maine incolo ma apuc si de ceasuri
ai adaptat ceva de e34? sau de urs? eu am litrometrul de carburatie si as vrea sa-l schimb.
n-am nici o adaptare...litometrul original si o pompa submersibila de e30 care s-a potrivit un pic mai greu
acum am realizat ca nu am pus nici o poza de la compartimentul motor dupa transplantul de m50. e cineva curios sa vada cum arata?
eu nu stiu de ce stai sa intrebi
Bineinteles ca sunt mai multi curiosi.
Credeam ca e top secret, si nu am indraznit sa intreb.
)) nu e top-secret...am luat niste bacterii ca sa le pun in aparat si sa fac poze...dar nu stiu cum se intampla ca e al doilea set de bacterii care nu se potriveste in aparat si nu se inchide capacelul de acolo.
Mai investeste si in aparatul foto nu doar in masina:)
pai 3 lei pe 2 baterii nu e investitie in aparatul foto?
Niste acumulatori ar fi o investitie, bateriile sunt consumabile
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