un rechin la malul dunarii, e28 528i Options

[TiL]

sita, dar aia nu prea se infunda la benzinare. Si cred ca ai verificat/curatat oricum

[elvislorin]

sita este curata

[elvislorin]

din ciclul ce mai mesterim noi la masina: am schimbat becurile de la bord si consola...merg becurile la modulul de lumini, proiectoare, ceas, degivrare etc
yey

[Levo]

din ciclul ce mai mesterim noi la masina: am schimbat becurile de la bord si consola...merg becurile la modulul de lumini, proiectoare, ceas, degivrare etc
yey

Eu cand mi-am luat masina nu mergea absolut nici un bec in bord in afara de cele de la ceasuri. Cand le-am schimbat toate , parca era alta masina. Stateam in masina si ma jucam cu comutatorul de la lumini si faruri de ceata si ma uitam cum se schimba iluminarea simbolurilor de langa comutatoare. Maruntisurile astea mici fac cateodata toata diferenta.

[elvislorin]

exact...vezi ca ti-am dat add pe mess

[elvislorin]

avem bec la cheie functional
in alta ordine de idei caut ceasuri de bord si sonda de nivel din rezervor (cea cu pompa atasata)

[elvislorin]

asa arata pompa de benzina din rezervor

[elvislorin]

din ciclul faci pe o parte pica pe alta...pana acum nu mergea turometrul dar mergeau celelalte...am curatat azi ceasurile si imi merge turometrul dar kilometrajul si vitezometrul merg din cand in cand pe baza de palme sau gropi luate
cautarea pt ceasuri de bord functionale continua (sa fie de benzinar in 6 cilindri si consum instant)

[haifisch]

tu ai curatat senzorul de pe diferential al kilometrajului?

[elvislorin]

tu ai curatat senzorul de pe diferential al kilometrajului?

acum 2 ani de zile...dar avand in vedere ca mai am inca unul de rezerva o sa il pun pe ala sa vad daca mai face figuri

This post has been edited by elvislorin: Nov 24 2012, 06:51 PM

[elvislorin]

1. schimbat senzorul de pe diferential si vad ca nu mai face figuri kilometrajul si vitezometrul...10x haifisch
2. facut priza de aer pentru filtrul de aer K&N...simplu: gaura in capacul de la faruri si montat furtunul de la filtru...o sa mai fac o izolatie intre filtrul de aer si galeria de admisie, ca sa nu traga aer cald de la motor
3. chiar daca functioneaza kilometrajul, vitezometrul si turometrul vad ca nu imi merge consumul instant...mai e ceva de verificat?stiu ca daca ai turometru si vitezometru functional ar trebui sa mearga si consumul instant
4. nu imi merge lumina din torpedou...am becul legat la cele doua fire, arcul care vine in spatele becului, tamburusul de plastic care impinge cand inchid torpedoul...mai e vreo piesa?puteti sa faceti unul din voi o poza cu zona respectiva?

[haifisch]

eu nu prea am cum sa iti fac poza cu locul ala momentan

[elvislorin]

zilele urmatoare

[xox]

3. chiar daca functioneaza kilometrajul, vitezometrul si turometrul vad ca nu imi merge consumul instant...mai e ceva de verificat?stiu ca daca ai turometru si vitezometru functional ar trebui sa mearga si consumul instant

Si eu stiam acelasi lucru cand mi-am schimbat ceasul din bord si-am pus turometru cu economizor (eu chiar aveam ceas, adica pentru ora, mai lipsea cucu ) si m-am trezit ca nu merge economizorul. Si m-am tot uitat pe net, si-am descoperit ca nu merge pentru ca eu aveam carburatie (chiar daca aveam si eu un soi de ecu - de fapt niste senzori pe carburator). Acuma, m-am tot documentat, tot nu stiu clar cum functioneaza economizorul - desi era un topic aici pe forum, chiar pe sectiunea de E30 parca, unde se discuta si de o tensiune de referinta care se ia din acumulatorii din bord. Fara de care n-ai o citire corecta a economizorului dar - atentie! - si a turometrului. Deci treaba-i mai complicata, concluzia fiind ca nu tine doar de vitozemtru si turometru. Mai este un semnal care trebuie sa-l primesti acolo in bord

[elvislorin]

am gasit topicul cu e30 dar documentatia nu mai e disponibila...poate ma ajuta cineva totusi...316i?

[elvislorin]

o sa verific si acumulatorii din bord...avand in vedere ca masina a stat 2 ani nepornita si fara baterie mai mult ca sigur s-au descarcat

[lucian]

debitmetrul da coordonatele pt. consumul instant-probabil impreuna cu ecu.
la mine, cand am avut debitmetrul defect din cauza gpl-ului, nu mergea nici consumul insatnt.
ai schimbat motoru, debitmetrul e altfel, mufa e altfel...

[elvislorin]

nop maestre...nu are nici o treaba debitmetrul...acum am dat jos ceasurile si am gasit placa de baza cu depuneri si circuite intrerupte...o rezolv si apoi schimb si acumulatorii...era un topic pe forum in legatura cu acumulatorii dar nu il mai gasesc..help?

[elvislorin]

gasit asta

The Service Indicator (SI) board is a circuit board in the instrument
cluster. Its most obvious function is to monitor the engine usage in
order to count down the time until the next recommended oil change or
inspection, reporting using the bar graph on the cluster. A more subtle
function is to read the "code plug" at start up and use this information
to translate fuel injector and ignition pulses to drive the tachometer
and fuel economy meter.

The SI board batteries provide back-up power to retain the service
counter when the main battery is dead or missing. Much like a UPS for
a desktop computer, they are intended to prevent data loss during a
brief power outage rather than to be a long-term power source. Since SI
board batteries are a pain to replace, you should not remove the battery
for storage and avoid leaving the car sit with a dead battery.

There are two major variations of the Service Indicator (SI) board in
the instrument cluster, the original type with NiCad batteries and the
redesigned retrofit board with long-life Lithium batteries.

NiCad boards have two 1.2V 'AA' cells in series. Fresh batteries will
power the SI board for about a month if the main battery is
disconnected, and will slowly recharge when main battery voltage is
restored. The NiCads typically to last for 5 to 15 years.

Lithium boards have two 3V lithium cells in parallel, which will last for
well over a decade of stand-by use. They should power the SI board for
several months if you remove the main battery, but this will permanently
consume part of their life.

The problem with NiCad board, and the reason for the SI board redesign,
is that NiCad cells don't fail gracefully. If you discharge an old cell
to zero volts (really below 0.6V), metal whiskers start growing
internally. These will short out the cell, preventing it from
recharging at all. The original SI board had two design flaws based on
connecting the microprocessor directly to the batteries: it would
discharge the batteries completely trying to preserve the counter state,
and shorted batteries will prevent the microprocessor from working at
all when the power is restored. Even if you don't care about the oil
change suggestion, other functions that depends on the coding plug
(e.g. the tach) will not work.

The Lithium battery board fixed the design problem. It has two
non-rechargeable 3V lithium cells that are diode isolated from each other
and main battery power. Either cell can provide back-up power, with the
load normally shared to provide twice the life. Even if both cells
fail, the main battery can still power the circuitry.


So now that you know how the SI board batteries work and fail, how do we
fix the problem? I'll start with the NiCad board, since people with bad
lithium batteries might not even know that they have have dead batteries.

There are several web pages with excellent instructions and pictures on
removing the SI board. I won't repeat them here, instead only covering
the battery information that isn't obvious from physical disassembly.

The original NiCad batteries are standard size AA cells (Varta 500 RST)
with board-mount tabs welded on the ends. Your options are to buy
replacements with the same board-tab connections from a specialty
battery supplier (hobby shop or on-line), buy cells with solder tabs or
wires attached, or use wire a remote battery holder to the circuit
board.

Whatever mounting option you choose, use *only* standard capacity,
high-temp NiCad cells. "Better" battery chemistry types (NiM-H,
Lithium) or specialized cells (rapid charge, high capacity) cells are
not better for this application. Non-NiCad chemistries will have
different voltages, and high capacity or rapid recharge NiCad cells have
design compromises that reduce longevity. NiM-H batteries are reported to
work, but the continuous trickle charging will destroy them.

A good choice of battery is the Sanyo high-temp standard capacity cells.

If you can't find cells with solder tabs or want to remote-mount the
cells for easier replacement, put them in a holder. Radio Shack has a
nice dual AA cell battery holder, part #270-408. It's fully enclosed
with wire leads already attached, and typically stocked in-store for
about $1.49.

I don't recommend Radio Shack as a NiCad battery source. They will do
in a pinch, but the cells are overpriced and not the best type for this
application.


Now on to the lithium battery SI board. This is much more academic,
since these board generally don't have problems. However our cars are
getting old, so some of these boards may start needing battery
replacements at some point.

Lithium Battery info

The newer style SI board uses a MnhO2 Lithium battery by Sanyo (CR1425OSE).
The board on my 1987 325is is dated 13.94, and numbered 992 647 196.
It clearly is a replacement, likely installed after only seven years.
The batteries on my board are dated 93-08, and measure 3.17V in 2004.
Nominal end-of-life voltage is 2.0V, but at 2.5V little capacity remains.
The two 3V cells are connected in parallel but isolated by diodes.
Either cell can fail individually and the board will still work.
The cells have an extra isolation film under the conformal coating,
presumably to protect the board from overheating or leakage.

More details about the battery:
Sanyo CR14250SE 3V 850mAh 14.5x25mm (1/2 AA size) lithium cell.
The 14250 is a standard primary (non-rechargeable) Lithium type, available
from multiple sources.
sanyo.wslogic.com/pdf/pdfs/CR14250SE.pdf
The 'SE' variant was optimized for high capacity and long shelf life.
Other variants are optimized for high discharge rate or light weight.
The standard 'SE' discharge rate is 0.5 mA.
This is ten times less than the power needed to light a small LED.
At the standard rate the cells will discharge in 72 days.
At a 10uA rate the cells will last 10 years.
The temp range is -40C to +85C, rather than -20C+60C of other brands.
The cell may weigh up to 11g, rather than as little as 7g.
The Sanyo 'SET-FT' suffix indicates welded tabs for board mounting.
Modern cells are available in 950mAh versions, but long shelf life and
seal life are more important than capacity.

INLOCUITORUL PT VARTA 500 RST E 55110201059

This post has been edited by elvislorin: Nov 26 2012, 01:24 PM

[xox]

Depinde, unele nu-s AA, tre' sa vezi ce baterii ai pe SI board. Eu la bord mai vechi aveam modelul mai lung, pe ala mai nou, model scurt, cr14250 parca. Ma uit la mine pe topic si-ti spun exact.