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> Problema debit caldura,E28
Mihai_AMD
post Jan 22 2011, 12:45 AM
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CITAT(bartro @ Jan 21 2011, 08:31 PM) *
Rotita nu comanda direct robinet/valva.

dar ce? parca tu ziceai ca daca dau mai pe rece,robinet nu sta inchis,ci inchide-deschide si tot asa..deci o sacaiala mare pe capu lui smile.gif


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TiL
post Jan 22 2011, 01:40 AM
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Bart spunea mai devreme: chiar daca lasi rotita in pace, cand temperatura din habitaclu se echilibreaza (ajunge la cea setata de rotita) electrovalva incepe sa se inchida/deschida ritmic (nu stiu cat de des) ca sa pastreze respectiva temperatura. Asa ca nu-ti fi teama, foloseste regulatorul de temperatura cu incredere, numai sa nu tocesti potentiometrul biggrin.gif



PS, acum m-am prins. Vrei sa tii temperatura setata la maxim, sa fii sigur ca electrovalva e intotdeauna deschisa. Si sa dai drumul la aer rece pe mijloc doar cand ai nevoie.


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brown.shark
post Jan 22 2011, 10:18 AM
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mihai - iarna, la orice masina, daca se poate, trebuie sa tii caldura la max si cat mai mult volum de aer orientat spre picioare / mocheta. asa usuci mocheta / presuri / izolatie si scoti orice urma de condens din zona de jos a masinii, incusuv cablurile care sunt pe podea le tii ferite de oxidare.
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Mihai_AMD
post Jan 22 2011, 10:30 AM
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CITAT(TiL @ Jan 22 2011, 01:40 AM) *
PS, acum m-am prins. Vrei sa tii temperatura setata la maxim, sa fii sigur ca electrovalva e intotdeauna deschisa. Si sa dai drumul la aer rece pe mijloc doar cand ai nevoie.

da,cam asa si fac...

CITAT(brown.shark @ Jan 22 2011, 10:18 AM) *
mihai - iarna, la orice masina, daca se poate, trebuie sa tii caldura la max si cat mai mult volum de aer orientat spre picioare / mocheta. asa usuci mocheta / presuri / izolatie si scoti orice urma de condens din zona de jos a masinii, incusuv cablurile care sunt pe podea le tii ferite de oxidare.

da,cam asa si fac:D mai ales la drum mai lung,tin ambele manete deschise,sus si jos,pe oras nu tin decat pe cea de sus,ca sa mentina deyaburirea,daca dau si jos ii ia din debit ca se imparte si jos aerul


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Ciupanezu
post Jan 22 2011, 12:30 PM
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Chestia asta merge doar teoretic.
La unele maşini ar fi insuportabil, de exemplu la E39.
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TiL
post Jan 22 2011, 12:44 PM
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la toyota e imposibil, ca nu am controlul asa cum il am la E28. Are niste preset-uri.
Nu pot sa directionez aer doar sus, nu pot sa dozez cat vreau sus/jos/fata


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Mihai_AMD
post Jan 30 2012, 11:44 PM
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revin cu alta intrebare...
banuind ca electrovalva aia de caldura e bolnava,pot face una pe direct?ca am alta de rezerva defecta.
pt ca de cateva zile nu mai baga asa cald ca inainte,baga dar nu ca inainte,,
electrovalva pe direct=electrovalva functionala,atata timp cat se tine pe cald la maxim? ca spre rece stiu ca nu va mai merge daca e pe direct


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tomado e28 owner
post Jan 31 2012, 12:14 AM
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Poti sa o scoti din circuit pana la primavara, duci furtunul de tur din motor direct la calorifer. Pe sistemul asta merge la mine de cand o am...
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Mihai_AMD
post Jan 31 2012, 12:27 AM
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sau,ii anulez membrana aia care obtureaza trecerea apei in functie de reglajul care il dau din habitaclu,numai sa fiu atent la garnitura de etansare,stiu,,
zicea un coleg mai sus sau parca in alt topic asemanator,ca electrovalva asta are si un rol de a mentine o anumita presiune spre calorifer,daca pun direct tur motor in calorifer nu il buseste?
sau,oricum,o electrovalva NOUA la vremea ei,cu caldura pornita in blana,trecea apa prin ea neobturata ca si cum ar fi fost anulata?

legat de furtunasul de aer din admisie spre senzor habitaclu,l-am anulat de prin toamna,cu toate astea reglajul mai rece-mai cald merge perfect...sau asa e risc sa se incinga rezistenta senzorului si sa se arda mai rpd?

This post has been edited by db85amd: Jan 31 2012, 12:29 AM


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Mihai_AMD
post Jan 31 2012, 08:47 AM
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CITAT(db85amd @ Jan 31 2012, 12:27 AM) *
sau,ii anulez membrana aia care obtureaza trecerea apei in functie de reglajul care il dau din habitaclu,numai sa fiu atent la garnitura de etansare,stiu,,
zicea un coleg mai sus sau parca in alt topic asemanator,ca electrovalva asta are si un rol de a mentine o anumita presiune spre calorifer,daca pun direct tur motor in calorifer nu il buseste?
sau,oricum,o electrovalva NOUA la vremea ei,cu caldura pornita in blana,trecea apa prin ea neobturata ca si cum ar fi fost anulata?

legat de furtunasul de aer din admisie spre senzor habitaclu,l-am anulat de prin toamna,cu toate astea reglajul mai rece-mai cald merge perfect...sau asa e risc sa se incinga rezistenta senzorului si sa se arda mai rpd?

am verificat acu dimineata,dupa cca 30km efectuati,furtunul care intra in electrovalva e mai cald ca cel care iese...deci inseamna ca nu mai deschide cat trebuie?! ca blocata nu e,repet,daca dau de rotita pe aer mai rece merge,deci ea functioneaza cat de cat..


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TiL
post Jan 31 2012, 10:51 AM
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treaba cu reglatul presiunii e o ... e fals dupa parerea mea smile.gif

Nu mai retin exact cum e inauntru, dar parca am putut sa scot pistonul din epectrovalva, deci apa ar circula tot timpul prin ea


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bartro
post Jan 31 2012, 11:54 AM
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QUOTE (db85amd @ Jan 31 2012, 12:27 AM) *
legat de furtunasul de aer din admisie spre senzor habitaclu,l-am anulat de prin toamna,cu toate astea reglajul mai rece-mai cald merge perfect...sau asa e risc sa se incinga rezistenta senzorului si sa se arda mai rpd?

Rezistenta aia nu sa incalzeste, el este un senzor de temperatura. Acuma cand ai anulat furtun ala, snezor nu mai inregistreaza corect temperatura din masina, ci temperatura unde e el pozitionat, unde o fi asta. Eu cred ca tot nu ai inteles cum functioneaza sistemul.
Si valva nu are nici o treaba cu presiune. Ea regleaza debit.
O sa ajungi ca la E12 al meu, un robinet sanatos de bricostore pe tur care vara sta inchisa, sa iarna deschisa smile.gif


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TiL
post Jan 31 2012, 03:31 PM
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yep, valva regleaza doar debit, dar stie doar doua valori de debit: 0 sau 1.


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bartro
post Jan 31 2012, 05:25 PM
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Ajunge, daca moduleaza in timp in 5 trepte de exemplu (si pe diferenta de set-point si temperatura actuala):
00000 (cald 0%)
00001
00011
00111
01111
11111 (cald 100%)
face mai multe sau mai putine caldura, cu o rezolutie in functie de trepte.
Nu stiu exact cum e facut, la e32 insa sa auzea ritmic inchidere - deschidere la valva.


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Mihai_AMD
post Jan 31 2012, 05:33 PM
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nu am avut azi timp sa bag furtun de tur care trebuie sa intre in valva,direct in calorifer,cum are tomado,insa maine il fac asa,sper sa ajunga ok sa nu se gatuie


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TiL
post Jan 31 2012, 05:54 PM
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mda, dar ar uza prea repede valva, ca e greoaie, grosolana.

La E28 si E30 aud doar un clanc.


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bartro
post Jan 31 2012, 06:00 PM
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QUOTE (TiL @ Jan 31 2012, 05:54 PM) *
La E28 si E30 aud doar un clanc.

Cat de des? La E32 cam asa odata pe 10 secunde cred. Inertia sistemului e destul de mare, nu cere modulatie rapida.


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TiL
post Jan 31 2012, 06:05 PM
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a, n-am fost atat de atent sa vad daca moduleaza pe perioada atat de mare


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xander
post Jan 31 2012, 09:35 PM
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sfatul meu e sa incerci sa pui vacum ul inapoi
stie neamtul de la l a pus acolo
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tomado e28 owner
post Jan 31 2012, 09:52 PM
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Daca elimina electrovalva de pe circuit poate sa stea si fara vacuum:P Nu cred ca protejeaza senzorul in vreun fel. Doar face un flux de aer constant ca sa "citeasca" temperatura cu acuratete mai mare.
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